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On Gifts

By PAMELA DITTMER MCKUEN
Whether to don fine jewelry fashioned in white gold or yellow gold largely been a matter of when one married. For reasons of sentimentality, uniformity and cost, those who exchanged rings when silvery-hued metals were in vogue have not inclined to cross into the golden realm—and vice versa. New additions had to match the bridal set. Until now.
 
A glorious third choice has emerged: Rose Gold. This coppery-hued precious metal is softer than yellow but not as icy as white. Let the
mixing begin.
 
Fashionable apparel in recent years has turned to bigger and bolder looks, and the jewelry industry has followed, says Carter Davies, director of merchandise for C. D. Peacock.
 
“The overall scale of jewelry has increased, with clients looking for statement pieces that are unique with personality,” he said. “Rose gold has gained popularity as a way of expressing individuality, with a sense of femininity.”
 
Rose gold—also known as pink gold, red gold and strawberry gold—is created by adding copper to gold and alloys. The more copper, the deeper the orange intensity. The color is commanding prominent placement not only in jewelry for women and men but also in clothing, accessories and cosmetics. Even Burberry Body Eau de Parfum presently is contained in a limited edition rose gold flacon.  “What is wonderful about rose gold is it is flattering to a wide variety of skin tones, and it looks good when paired with all metals,”says Melissa Liebling-Goldberg, women’s editorial director for Gilt.com.
 
Rose gold is satisfyingly transformative. When studded with pearls and pastel stones, it turns romantic. Teamed with brilliant hues, it feels decidedly sophisticated. Diamonds go either way, depending on the setting. Do note that rose gold needs to be manipulated and punctuated. A large plane of smooth rose gold can resemble a band-aid.
 
“The play between colors and textures can be really great,” says
Liebling-Goldberg. “When you take two disparate elements, you end up with something more interesting than either one alone.”
 
Chicago jewelry artisan Jules Vance reports one of her most popular designs is an ID tag necklace, often customized with adornments and inscriptions to commemorate a relationship or support a cause. Two years ago she introduced a 14k rose gold version in support of Bright Pink, a Chicago-based charity that advocates prevention and early detection of breast and ovarian cancer. More recently she paired rose gold with gemstones made from copper-streaked mineral slabs.
 
“Our clients are really responding to our use of this metal because the color is subtle and rich,” says Vance. “It’s unexpected, yet will be chic and classic for years to come.”
 
One can enjoy the trend without extravagant cost, Davies points out. Recent advances in metallurgy and metalworking to bring rose-hued looks into lower price-points through new silver alloys and plating processes. The moderately priced Stella & Dot rose-toned collection ranges from intricate lace pieces to edgy-chic options.
 
More possibilities to consider: Cartier’s Trinity tri-gold necklace, with its signature intertwined circles, in an array of sizes, with and without diamonds, with and without pearls. Piaget’s iconic Rose Collection in rose gold and diamonds. Roberto Coin’s stunning cocktail rings with diamond-circled cabochons.
 
For time-keeping drama, Casio America added the Black X Rose Gold Series to the popular EDIFICE Black Label Collection. And Hublot’s delicious Big Bang Tutti Frutti Orange is an 18kt red gold chronograph adorned with orange baguette sapphires and orange rubber-and-alligator strap. Other flavors are available.
 
Wedding styles are offered in combination and solitary hue. Rings with a touch of rose are perhaps reminiscent of the blushing bride, while those crafted entirely in rose are more daring, says Davies.

Today’s bride, if she chooses rose gold, is forever free to match.

Or not.

Published: December 02, 2012
Issue: 2012 Philanthropy Issue